🔗 Share this article

This holiday, ice-cold chestnut puree sweet treat is often credited to the renowned 19th-century chef Antonin Carême, who acknowledged the fact that the opulent invention was from Chef Mony, cook for the diplomat Count Nesselrode. Originally, it was paired with a warm, alcoholic custard, although it's perfect on its own. It makes an excellent Christmas focal point.

Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6

125g currants, or alternatively raisins or even sultanas
50g high-quality chopped candied peel, diced small
75ml maraschino, or another sweet liqueur of your choice (see step 2)
1 vanilla pod, cut open, or alternatively 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
600ml whipping cream
4 egg yolks
50g superfine sugar
45g almond flakes
125g vacuum-packed chestnuts, or chestnut paste

1 A Note on the Dried Fruits

Put the currants and peel and candied peel in a small basin. Mony's formula reportedly included contained a mix of currants and raisins (however different dried fruits, or indeed any other minced dried fruit of your choice, can be used), plus candied citron, the rind from a specific type of citrus. Citron is found on the internet, as are many other glacé fruits that prove much better to the typical unpleasant chunks found in grocery stores.

2 Regarding the Alcohol

Mix in the liqueur: maraschino, an Italian sour cherry liqueur, serves as the original choice, but alternate versions opt for orange liqueur, brandy and noyau, an almond-tasting spirit made from apricot kernels, or a combination of maraschino with dark rum. Madeira, sherry, port, and so on, would surely be good, also. Marinate the fruit for a few hours, or leave overnight.

3 Flavor the Heavy Cream

About an hour prior to starting, cut the vanilla bean down its length then take the tip of a knife to extract the vanilla caviar. Place these and the empty pod into a small pan with the whipping cream, heat over low heat just to a light boil, after which remove from the flame allowing it to steep. (Should you use extract, add it and use immediately.)

4 Combine the Sugar and Egg Yolks

Place the yolks in a bowl that can withstand heat by the cooker (reserve and freeze the whites for cocktails or pavlovas). Carefully heat again the vanilla cream to reach a simmer. At the same time, beat the sugar with the egg yolk mixture (if you have a preference for sweeter desserts, you may wish to add more the quantity of caster sugar to 75g).

5 Add the Warm Cream

Take out the vanilla pod from within the cream, and then vigorously whisk the warm, infused cream with the beaten yolks. Pour back into the saucepan, place it on a low heat and heat, whisking all the while, until the mix is just thick enough where a visible trail can be drawn across it on the reverse of the spoon. Place the saucepan into a basin of cold water for cooling.

6 Blitz the Chestnuts

At this stage, brown the almonds in a dry frying pan till golden. If using whole chestnuts, whizz them in a food processor, or crush to a powder in a mortar.

Remove the liquid from the soaked fruit, add the reserved soaking alcohol into the processed chestnuts and whizz again until uniform paste (if necessary, mix in a small amount of the egg mixture to thin it out). If using pre-made chestnut puree, gently fold in the spirit.

7 Prepare the Frozen Base

Spoon the boozy chestnut paste into a sizeable mixing bowl, next slowly incorporate with the cooled custard until the mixture is well combined. Process in an ice cream churner till quite thick texture. If you don't have a machine, pour in a solid container suitable for freezing, cover and chill for an hour, after which take an electric whisk or a wooden spoon to whisk vigorously. Do this again about every half an hour until it is thickened and almost set.

8 Gently Mix in the Fruit and Nuts

After the base is thick and semi-frozen, gently mix the fruit and toasted almonds into it till well distributed. Line a two-pint bowl or baking tin with plastic wrap then spoon the mixture into it (alternatively, use a buttered specialty tin).

Press down firmly then fold over the clingfilm over the top to seal.

9 Chill Thoroughly, Then Serve</