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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.